Why “Mental health is not Fashion”… or is it?

Gucci's failed attempt to engage with mental health awareness in fashion.

Article by Emily Wood

Edited by Fiona Bruce

The fashion world has long been criticised for its indifference towards mental health issues and its reluctance to positively engage with it. We all remember the model Kate Moss’ infamous remark that “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels”, which caused a media frenzy in 2009. A decade on, and the industry is still facing criticism for such blatant nonchalance towards mental health issues and the consequences faced by those suffering with them.

Earlier this year, the fashion brands Kimhēkim and Gucci have received a similar backlash for their accessorising of mental health at the launch of their Spring/Summer 2020 collections. Kimhēkim made use of IV drips at Paris Fashion Week, whilst Gucci adopted straitjackets at Milan Fashion Week. Critics have argued that both brands were blatantly insensitive towards those suffering from mental health issues or disabilities.

During the Gucci show, Ayesha Tan-Jones (YaYa Bones), was one of the models who was put in a straitjacket on the runway. (Tan-Jones is non-binary and identifies with they/them pronouns). To demonstrate objection to the insensitive display, they held up their hands to reveal the words “MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION” written across their palms. Gucci claim that they had been unaware of their premeditated form of protest. Unsurprisingly, the show received a huge amount of criticism (and publicity) after their tactless portrayal of mental illness.

In response to the backlash, a Gucci spokesman explained that it “presented how society today can have the ability to confine individuality and how Gucci can be the antidote. It was a journey from conformity to freedom and creativity”. They intended to symbolise how power eliminates the ability for one to self-express. Gucci remarked that the clothes will not be sold and were solely for runway use. Their attempt to engage in socio-political controversies in a non-offensive manner was anything but.

Kimhēkim accessorised with IV drips at Paris Fashion Week.

Despite the overwhelming socio-political climate of the last few years and the increasing awareness and attention paid to issues such as mental health, it is severely disappointing that the fashion industry still lags so far behind on addressing mental health in a positive and proactive manner. Personally, I find it shocking that the industry continues to defend their mockery of mental illness as an artistic project and a symbolic statement of political power and its restrictions on society. It is highly insensitive to the reality faced by those sufferers and the turmoil that they endure. From the glorification of Anorexia Nervosa to the degrading adoption of IV drips and straitjackets on the runway (alongside many other inappropriate depictions of mental illness in various brand’s collections, such as Burberry’s jumper with a noose around the neckline), the fashion industry continues to defile their reputation and reduce their standing in the eyes of the general public. It’s a wonder that they continue to get away with such attitudes, and it begs the question: at what point will this change? Maybe the better question is if it will ever change.