FS REVIEW 2020: Blown away by commitment to sustainability, not Storm Dennis

Writers: Gabrielle Holliday and Millie James

Editors: Grace Kennedy, Sarah McCrorie, Mia Foale

Photography: Lightbox

In the lead up to FS2020, St Andrews Fashion Show placed a strong emphasis on sustainability. In the past year, sustainability has become somewhat of a ‘trend’ both across the whole fashion industry and in St. Andrews, and so I was curious to see if FS2020 was merely employing ‘sustainability’ as a fashionable buzz word, or if we would see a real commitment to reducing our footprint on the planet. It’s one thing to claim you want to be sustainable but another to implement it to make a valuable impact. But in the week leading up to FS, the committee proved they were true to their commitment to their chosen charity, Fashion Revolution, by organising panels and a pop-up show, with sustainable brands such as SULKE, discussing the future of sustainable fashion, and making clear they were dedicated to following through on their marketing.

I also wondered about the evenings capability to exceed expectations as tickets were still on sale and Storm Dennis loomed over the marquee and town. As guests flooded in from the storm outside, the sentiment of escapism that PlayHaus intended to encapsulate was almost tangible. Perhaps one of the most impressive aspects of FS, the narrative constructed throughout the creative campaign was not only maintained but developed throughout the show. The catwalk, initially empty and bathed in blue, became the backdrop for the palette of hot pink, purple, yellow and green that characterised the rooms of the PlayHaus during the run up to the show. These colours were personified by the models themselves as they stepped out and onto the stage holding what can only be described as light sabres. As a vintage monologue blared over the screams of the crowd, it was clear that the show had begun.

 From here, the choreography, the soundtrack and the clothes themselves were wonderfully harmonised. Despite overhearing a grouchy guest complain about how long the show was, the choreography was somehow both unpredictable but methodical, the effect of which had every person rooted; it sounds dramatic, but I was (not only because of the six packs) simply unable to look away. Modern techno and quirky choreography were, much like the clothes themselves, aspects that juxtaposed perfectly against each other. Featured designers included Clawdi, Alice Pons, Ripa Ripa and Walker Slater, and while the first wave of looks showcased plaid shirts, pastel cargo trousers and white tees, we agreed that much of the clothes on show were those which we ourselves would love to wear on a day-to-day basis, an aspect of the show that I hadn’t anticipated and thoroughly enjoyed.

However, you could not accuse the show of being predictable. After a brilliant performance from Alex Mills, cargo pants became plaid suits that became burnt orange Peaky Blinder-esque flat caps that became dresses constructed entirely out of recycled materials such as crisp packets and rubber gloves. This was followed by a more sultry, upbeat lingerie and swimwear section, that proved to be the finale of what I can only describe as a pretty perfect performance.

Another defying element of FS2020 was the increased commitment to sustainability. This year, the FS2020 committee was proud to announce that 40% of their featured collections were sustainable, which was a huge leap forward. The fashion industry needs to change, and this change can start with all of us. By seeing sustainable clothing on a runway, this immediately invalidates the claim that sustainable clothing can’t be fashion forward. Fast fashion has been dangerous from the beginning, and we need to realize that it isn’t normal to have 50 different collections a year. As was emphasised at the panel’s and pop-up show before the show, as well as throughout the event, the trend is not sustainability- it’s fast fashion. In years gone by, our parents would invest in clothing that would last a lifetime; they would reuse, repair, recycle. FS has taken fashion back to its sustainable roots by invoking this practice, and even encouraged guest excitement about sustainability with vegan goodie-bags, including vegan toothpaste, shampoo, conditioner and Kombucha. The only question that remained in my mind at the end of the night is this: if the biggest event in St Andrews can make such a commitment to sustainable fashion, why can’t everyone?

In my mind, FS2020 have once again set the bar for other fashion shows in St Andrews, not only due to the polished and professional feel of the event, but because of the increased focus on a sustainable future. If in their first year to committing to sustainability they can have such a successful show with 40% sustainable fashion, then it means the percentage can only go up in the next few years. Whilst the combination of music, choreography and design consisted of one of, if not the most successful fashion shows I’ve seen during my time in St Andrews, when the lights came up, the committee came out and the models could finally crack a smile. It was the euphoria and somehow-shared sense of accomplishment that something rather incredible had been achieved for a rather incredible cause, which made PlayHaus my favourite show yet and is leading all St Andrews fashion shows into a new sustainable era.