The Haute Brand Spotlight – Promoting Racial and Ethnic Diversity in Design
Article by Lucy Fordyce
The Black Lives Matter movement has served as a catalyst for widespread recognition of racial and ethnic discrimination, shining a disturbingly revealing light on the day-to-day injustices that exist within our society. Unfortunately, it would be naïve to suggest that St Andrews’ famous “bubble” offers any reprieve from these issues, a fact which student accounts of racism make painfully clear. As a result, we all have a responsibility to promote discussion and action that – even in a small way – can raise awareness and kickstart positive and much-overdue change.
The accountability for the lack of diversity at St Andrews lies with the institution itself, the student body should not take responsibility for that. However, strong allyship is the duty of all of us. – Talia Jackman, Being a Black Student in St Andrews
When the BLM protests were at their height, Haute’s 2019/20 editor, Georgia McConnell, posted a list of Black-owned brands to support and stated that we at the magazine ‘stand against all forms of racism, and strive for equal opportunities and diversity.’ It is only fitting that we begin the new academic year at Haute by picking up where she left off - with another list of brilliant brands helmed by creatives from diverse racial and ethnic backgrounds. After all, Georgia’s statement about the magazine, that ‘we are not perfect in our mission to be inclusive,’ is regrettably also applicable to the wider industry on which we comment. In other words, as much as the fashion industry seems to have made progress in the past few years (e.g. greater diversity amongst catwalk models, a Black man [Edward Enninful] as Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue), it still has a lot to learn about true equality of opportunity and representation. Fashion is fundamentally a celebration of creativity and of diversity of style and thought, yet many creatives and consumers continue to be under-served.
Take the recent story of the FENTY fashion house as an example. When LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) announced the new brand in 2019, its founder Rihanna was subsequently named both the first woman to create an LVMH brand and the first woman of colour to head an LVMH fashion house. The reaction to Rihanna’s new venture has been largely positive but, at the same time, we can’t help but wonder what took so long. Why are we still seeing monumental industry “firsts” when it’s been over thirty years since Naomi Campbell became the first Black woman on the cover of French Vogue? Rihanna paving the way is undeniably admirable on her part…but what does it say about the fashion industry that she is even having to do so? And what about those who don’t have her existing platform, industry connections, and finances?
We have the ability to send a powerful message about the direction we want the fashion industry to go in by speaking with our money as well as our words. If we want to see racial and ethnic diversity, then we all need to support the creatives who champion it – buy from them, recommend them to others, and wholeheartedly embrace their influence on the industry. To that end, below are some short introductions to Haute’s spotlighted brands, along with links to shop their amazing products. We would love for this list to keep growing so any suggestions would be very welcome – just leave a post in the comments or over on our Instagram!
Dume Dume
Key Creative: Jacqueline Ntephe
Products: Clothing, Jewellery, Gloves, Homeware
About: Dume Dume centres around original prints and unique designs, with sustainability as a core brand principle. All pieces are made to order in the UK and, to reduce fashion waste, the brand’s luxury dresses can be rented if needed for a one-off event or bought then returned once the owner is ready to let them go.
Webpage(s): https://www.dumedume.com/
Love YaaYaa
Key Creative: Nana Evans
Products: Clothing, Accessories
About: Love YaaYaa’s products include African head wraps (used both to protect hair and as an expression of identity) and printed t-shirts celebrating ‘Culture, Art, Equity, Freedom and Expression.’ However, the brand is perhaps best known for its leather and fabric Obi belts in plain and Ankara wax print designs. An Obi is a traditional Japanese sash usually made of silk and worn with a kimono, whilst Ankara fabric (which first found popularity in West Africa) features vibrant patterns due to the wax-resist Batik dye technique used to make it (Batik originates from Indonesia). Nana’s aim is to create versatile pieces that not only ‘reflect the character and personality of the wearer’ but also the ‘cultural significance each range provides’.
Webpage(s): https://loveyaayaa.com/
For more designs mixing African and Japanese influences, see this interview with Cameroonian-born Serge Mouangue, who has produced a line of Ankara-print kimono.
Manière De Voir
Key Creative: Reece Wabara
Products: Clothing, Accessories
About: Manière De Voir leans towards monochrome sports-luxe, offering bold graphics and Insta-ready silhouettes with unexpected details and fabrics. The brand’s four key aesthetics are Edgy, Minimal, Smart, and Street and its designs are intended to be mid-range investment pieces that can be worn long beyond the fashion season they were released in.
Webpage(s): https://www.manieredevoir.com/
Mode by Taylor
Key Creative: AJ Taylor
Products: Clothing
About: Mode by Taylor is aimed at women ‘who are becoming strong and powerful, women who are leveling up, building the life of their dreams.’ AJ’s designs are realised by a team of Black seamstresses using British and Ghanaian deadstock and made-to-last fabrics to increase re-wearability and reduce fashion waste. Styles range from fringed suit trousers to bold Ankara party skirts and jumpsuits featuring Kente patterns. Kente Cloth is a traditional Ghanaian fabric with different designs representing different values such as elegance, hope, and uniqueness.
Webpage(s): https://modebytaylor.com/
Niza Huang
Key Creative: Niza Huang
Products: Jewellery
About: Niza uses what she learned from her degree in Metalwork and Jewellery Design to create ‘raw-sophisticated’ pieces that use traditional jewellery materials in a very non-traditional way – think raw stones with metal poured around them (rather than the usual cut-polish-set process) and wavy, hammered designs. Niza sees beauty in the imperfection of nature, catering to customers who are ‘looking for something a little less conventional’.
Webpage(s): https://www.nizahuang.com/
Nünude
Key Creative: Joanne Baban Morales
Products: Lingerie, Clothing, First Aid
About: Joanne developed Nünude after observing that the popular dictionary definition of ‘nude’ as a ‘pale pinkish-beige colour’ didn’t apply to her Latina skin tone or to the skin tones of many other women. She wanted her brand to reflect a more diverse definition of nude, to ‘help women with their confidence by representing the underrepresented.’ Nünude offers lingerie and “wardrobe staple” clothing in a variety of skin-tone shades, as well as skin-matching bandages for those days when you really don’t want the entire world to know you cut your finger prepping vegetables.
Webpage(s): https://www.nu-nude.com/
Roshni Desai Designs and Jewellery
Key Creative: Roshni Desai
Products: Jewellery, Keychains, Bookmarks, Lingerie
About: Roshni is a lingerie design graduate who has been making jewellery since she was a child. Her jewellery range includes semi-precious stones, feminist slogans, and a healthy dose of humour, whilst her lingerie range combines high-quality fabrics with distinctive gold hardware. As an added bonus, all the packaging she uses is designed to be recycled or reused.
Webpage(s): https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/roshnidesaijewellery?ref=ss_profile
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/roshnidesaidesigns?ref=ss_profile
Sancho’s
Key Creative: Kalkidan Legesse
Products: Clothing, Accessories, Homeware
About: Sancho’s stocks a variety of brands who share Kalkidan’s passion for ethical and sustainable design, as well as eco-friendly own-brand products. Featured brands range from established names like People Tree and Thinx to a variety of independent and Black-owned businesses ‘who are creating beautiful fashion & accessories whilst making a difference.’ Some product listings also have a ‘pay what you can’ feature with three pricing options, aimed at simultaneously improving accessibility to ethical fashion and encouraging greater financial support for the sustainable design industry.
Webpage(s): https://sanchosshop.com/
Taro Collection
Key Creative: Tola ‘Tolly’ Awolesi
Products: Jewellery, Hair Accessories
About: Tolly started her journey into jewellery making by producing friendship bracelets, developing original designs, and modifying ready-made pieces. After becoming a mother of two, she decided to develop her interest further, taking courses in the hope of turning her hobby into a business. The result was Taro Collection, a brand which focuses on glam and tribal-inspired jewellery and hair accessories, all featuring lots of sparkle.
Webpage(s): https://tarocollection.co.uk/
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/tarocollection
