October in the UK marks Black History Month, a commemoration of Black communities and cultures. Including music and migration, social activism and scientific development, the month highlights narratives that have been neglected and oppressed throughout British history. October may nearly be over, but here at Haute we wanted to celebrate some of our favourite Black fashion designers, and continue a conversation that should happen beyond one month of the year. From African art to zigzag patterning, scroll on to see what our team loves:

Images courtesy of Aissata Imbrahima

Aissata Imbrahima

Mia Foale, Editor in Chief

There are two things in fashion that I am wary of: a collection that promises to capture the excitement of dating, and clothing that claims to be wearable across all seasons. Aissata Imbrahima, however, does not disappoint on either front. Her debut collection, “Lovers” of 2019 is as bold as these claims, and worth discussing even two years on. Its revolutionary confrontation of gender binaries through use of delicate colour and sharp tailoring is made wearable through innovative twists on perennial staples such as the suit trouser, waistcoat and oversized shirt. In her most recent collection, “To Our Friends”, this boldness becomes literal in the bright violet and citron applied to cropped blazers, elongated trouser-legs and exaggerated collars. If dating doesn’t get you excited, then this collection surely will.

Images courtesy of LaQuan Smith

LaQuan Smith

Tom Kennedy, Publisher

Having a clientele list with the likes of Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, and Deborah Cox, LaQuan Smith has demonstrated himself as a tour-de-force for modern haute couture. What stands out most about the New York-based designer is his instinctual ability to express creativity with respect to tradition throughout all his collections. His pieces make a statement, while avoiding gimmicks and controversial shticks. Smith’s work is highlighted through his blend of geometrical cuts and extensions with more traditional, form-fitting luxe. Each piece that he crafts is elegant, bold, and professional. As Smith is relatively new to the industry, it will be fascinating to witness exactly how he will mature and mold his brand through the changing of seasons and even more creations to be crafted.

Left to Right: Image courtesy of Alexandra Castello, Fashion News Magazine, and Colin Gray, Vogue.

Stephen Burrows

Kat Koehne, Creative Director

Stephan Burrows’ work is unmistakable, distinguished by innovative colour blocking, contrasting zigzag stitching, lettuce hems and jersey fabric. Freedom of movement and alignment with women’s bodies also characterized his work, embodying the disco movement of the 1970’s. Burrows graduated from FIT in 1966 and went on to gain international acclaim. In 1973, he joined four other American designers in “The Battle of Versailles,” a landmark show in which American and French designers competed against each other. Not only was Burrows one of the first African-American designers to be internationally recognized, but he was also the youngest out of the five designers chosen. In the same year, Burrows became the first Black designer awarded a Coty award and subsequently won two more in 1974 and 1977. His designs and vision have made a permanent mark in fashion history and continue to influence collections today.

Images Courtesy of Tia Adeola

Tia Adeola

Helen Jorgensen, Head Writer

In 2017, Teni “Tia” Adeola started her brand “Tia Adeola” out of her dorm room whilst pursuing an undergraduate arts degree in Culture and Media at The New School. Her passion for the Renaissance period serves as her main source of inspiration, which aims to rewrite history through fashion for people of colour. Signature details in her designs include elegant ruffles and dramatic sleeves.

In early August the New York City-based designer released her summer capsule collection, expanding into swimwear, and features singer Paloma Ford. She also released made-to-order garments for the first time, making her designs more accessible to her audience. Standouts in her Resort 2021 include string triangle bikini tops and low-waisted bottoms in bright pink and sandy beige trimmed in her signature ruffles, and a mustard-yellow high-waisted bodysuit made from boiled wool.

In an article with Office Magazine Adeola explains that “The capsule was made with the Tia Adeola girl in mind, and how she re-enters the world after being locked up for so long and feeling like her better self. For me, it’s always been the feeling of walking into the room and being your best self, and that room could be the pool or a dinner.”

*Image courtesy of Antoine Melis, Mosaert*

Paul Van Haver

Honor McWilliams, Lead Stylist

Paul Van Haver, otherwise known as the world-renowed francophone singer Stromae, is the founder and creative director of the sustainable, unisex company mosaert (a clever re-arrangement of Stromae), working alongside his brother, Luc Van Haver, and wife, Coralie Barbier. Although based in Belgium, Van Haver is deeply proud of his Rwandan heritage, taking clear inspiration from a variety of African style influences, most notably the Congolese Sapeur movement. Each year, mosaert releases one exclusive “capsule” collection comprising of graphic and colourful prints which blend identity and gender.

Sustainability is also at the core of all that mosaert does. In their most recent capsule launch in April 2021, the whole collection was designed using only recycled and/ or organic materials. Inspired by the theme of levitation, the launch is an ode to lightness, of the carbon footprint of the electric car and the clothes, and fantasy.

Christopher John Rogers

Laura Marsh, Writer

Who can forget Christopher John Rogers' Beyonce look on the cover of British Vogue? A connoisseur of colour, Rogers’s vision is intensely uncompromising and his head-turning 2020 commission did not fail to deliver.

Intending to ‘take up space,’ this Louisiana born designer has already created custom outfits for a stream of A-list celebrities including Lizzo, Viola Davis and Lil Nas X. Despite his meteoric rise to fame, Rogers’ signature style remains refreshingly authentic to the familial roots which inspired them: Sunday church. With the likes of Michelle Obama and Kamala Harris displaying his designs, Rogers' craftsmanship champions real bodies, with a distinct eye for women of colour.

An advocate of diversity in the fashion industry, the desiger in his most recent interview candidly stated, ‘I'm a queer person, a person of color, a Black American, and the work that I do is informed by all of those things, but it's not demonstrative of them.’ As a free-thinker, creator and ally for both black and LGBTQ+ communities, Rogers’ is sure to add a touch of vitality wherever his vision takes him next.

From Left to Right. Images Courtesy of Kyemah Mcentyre, Kyemah Mcentyre, Pinterest and Paul Morigi (FILMMAGIC)

Kyemah Mcentyre

Kate Sautter, Stylist

Kyemah Mcentyre is a young female designer and creator of the brand The Mind of Kye. The Mind of Kye is known for its art, streetwear, and extravagant gowns that emphasize traditional African styles.

Mcentyre started designing as a teenager and began her professional career at the age of 18 when her self-designed prom dress went viral. Today her work has been displayed in the New York Times, Cosmopolitan, and in New York Fashion Week.

Mcentyre recently launched her newest lounge and streetwear collection, “Making America” which was created to honor African women and their individual contribution to society.

In her other collections, Mcentyre draws inspiration from Hindu culture and the practice of chakra healing to create her designs. She has also built a presence on social media, where she uses her platform to promote inclusivity and fights to debunk stereotypes relating to black women in America. Her empire of activism and design will only keep growing. Keep an eye out for Kyemah Mcentyre in the fashion world!

LaSette

Helen Jorgensen, Head Writer

In early 2017, Shiara Robinson founded her lingerie brand LaSette to redefine lingerie from being something intimate and only meant for special occasions, and empower women to wear lingerie in any context they want to.

The models featured on their website are diverse, of different skin tones and body types, showing that lingerie is for all women, not just one body or skin type.

While the lingerie LVMH-owned brand Fenty announced in the beginning of 2021 a pause on production, LaSette has only a little over 3,600 followers on Instagram and no external funding or social media aids yet has landed significant collaborations including with Nordstrom for their Self Love Pop Up.

LaSette’s collection contains a few but versatile pieces, create in silk, lace and sheer mesh. The brand’s most popular product are its slips, ranging from 100 - 150 USD and come in blush pink and black

Showcasing Style: Haute Highlights the Best of Black Design