An Immaculate Conception: DONT WALK 2022 Presents “Revelation”

Words and Images by Mia Foale, Editor in Chief

“And when I had heard and seen, I fell down to worship before the feet of the angel”. This bold claim, lifted from the Biblical Book of Revelation and posted two days before the infamous charity fashion show, promised a night of awe and wonder. DONT WALK delivered on this promise.

The much-anticipated fashion show of St Andrews once again took to the catwalk this weekend. Staged at The Bowhouse, DONT WALK focused on “Revelation”, a theme developed by creative director Elise Morrison and inspired by her study of theology. Exploring and deconstructing the central themes of the Biblical text, the show, split into two parts, drew on concepts of holiness, morality and innocence. These are woven into a tapestry of humanity, drawn out through a “red thread” bringing together these themes, as model Martina Sardelli described it. This tapestry, and its complex threads delighted and dazzled audiences all night.

The first half of the show, as choreographer Paddy Denvir excitedly explained to me beforehand, focused on the idea of “holiness”, a façade of the honourable, the innocent, and that which we all seek to present to the world. “We have a societal superego” he noted when explaining the nuances between the chorography of the first and second half. The latter, by contrast, was expected to be “more racy, and more raunchy” – the mask that we all wear, we could expect to see slipping away. The slow removal of a moral façade over the course of an evening could potentially prompt an eyeroll from a seasoned fashionista, but Paddy reassured me that this was not a negative commentary – instead, it was about “freedom of expression”.

The constraints of a holy façade were artfully explored through Paddy’s choreography: the show opened with a slow, creepily robotic advance of models down the catwalk. Reminiscent of Alexander McQueen in both movement and aesthetic, in its first few minutes the show nodded to the greats and established itself as committed to its theme, and innovative in approach to its exploration. The structural outfits of the first few minutes slow gave way to a wash of delicate femininity and playful use of colour. Presenting an ambitious showcase of designers, the show could have risked appearing disparate in attempting to include an array of aesthetics in a short time. Whilst the designs presented here were markedly different, they shared a unified preoccupation with the intricacies involved in the deconstruction of the two-thousand-year-old theme “Revelation”. The showcased designs celebrated timeless antiquity, combined with a modern wearability that spoke to a theme that can stand the test of time.

Standing the test of time is a consideration that has been at the forefront of DONT WALK since its inception. Established in 2001 in the wake of 9/11, DONT WALK has sought to respond to social injustice and make a positive impact on the world. The annual fashion show represents a refusal to remain complacent during times of discrimination, oppression, and adversity. It encourages its participants to not just simply "walk by" problems in society, and instead use artistic expression to raise awareness of global issues. From sustainability to arts intervention, each year the fashion show raises money and awareness for charities tackling pressing issues within both local and global communities. This year was no different. This year’s charitable efforts were focused on the Urban Justice Centre’s Domestic Violence Project and Impact Arts. The former, a New York based charity which harks back to DONT WALK’s roots, offers legal counsel to the survivors of domestic violence. The focus on a charity that prioritises action is a worthwhile one, as model Martina Sardelli remarked: “the charity [we support] has to be useful and concrete… relevant right now and empowering. It’s about stepping out into the public eye”. Impact Arts, previously by DONT WALK, is a Scottish Charity that works to help people and communities transform their lives through art and creativity. They acknowledge that art in all its forms can reach and influence all people. "It can inspire brave new work, often, from the most surprising of places and individuals". Impact Arts work collaboratively with children, young people, older people and the wider community to achieve their aim of tackling inequalities in Scotland through creative engagement. In everything they achieve, they work towards a Scotland where everybody believes in the power of creativity to transform lives.

These charities will be thrilled with the support they have received from DONT WALK this year. The charity auction held in the intermission of the show showcased a range of luxury items ready to be exchanged for large donations to the charitable causes. Although the figures for the final totals of charitable proceedings have not yet been confirmed at the time of publication, the numerous high bids on items speak to the well-chosen items and the enthusiasm of guests to donate to such wonderful causes.

The second half of the show revealed the darker side that had been anticipated since the opening of the show. This carefully balanced a revival of motifs from the first half, recycling imagery and curating the “red thread” I had been told to expect. Music and accompanying choreography highlighted the transformation that had taken place. The interplay between structural sportswear and artfully tailored coats, combined with tactile interactions between models and sharp eye contact with the audience added texture to what have been a heavy-handed portrayal of binaries between good and evil. This was reiterated by the show’s easy merging of men and womenswear down the same catwalk. Again, the wearability of the pieces was evident, and the ease and joy with which models moved was delightful to witness. This was reflected back by a crowd that were happy to dance along to well-chosen music, an eclectic mix of church gospel, techno and impromptu live mixing catwalk, a first for DONT WALK. All restraint from the first half was gone, leaving unparalleled fun highlighted, rather than constrained, by ambitious choreography and exquisite clothing. By the after party, headlined by acts Anetha and LSDXOXO, the crowd may not have been at the feet of angels, but they were on their own feet, ready to celebrate a night of unparalleled success.  

 

 

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