Words by Mistral Zerbi, Head Writer

*Astrea and Cecilia, Photography by Joe Seal*

As the fashion scene in St Andrews gears up for its highly anticipated shows, DONT WALK and FS, the influence of Italian creativity is set to take centre stage. This year, both shows are directed by visionary Italian creatives, Cecilia Nuvola Bechini from Milan and Astrea Pulcinelli Triossi from Rome. Their unique perspectives promise to elevate the events beyond mere spectacle. In a recent interview, they shared insights on how their Italian heritage shapes their artistic visions and is forging a dialogue for the shows that will resonate deeply with the St Andrews community.

DONT WALK: A Dialogue with Culture and History

For Cecilia, Creative Director of DONT WALK, her Italian upbringing is integral to her vision. “Italian upbringing was at the very core of my vision for this year,” she states, emphasizing her desire to intertwine personal inspiration, education, and cultural roots. While the specific theme of her show remains under wraps, her focus is clear: to foster a meaningful dialogue with the student community through fashion.

Cecilia draws inspiration from the rich history of Italian fashion, noting how it has consistently created a dialogue with culture. “If we think about fashion in the last 90 years, after the end of World War II, it was austere, it was severe. As soon as hope started coming around, haute couture made its way back with designers like Gucci, who drew on classical literature […] to create myths!” she explains. This historical context underpins her current vision, rooted in the belief that myths and cultural narratives hold the power to reflect our present and guide our future.

In her quest to create a show that speaks to the heart of the audience, Cecilia emphasizes the importance of connecting with the past. “My inspiration for the show was this quote by Freud: ‘Myths are the secular dreams of youthful humanity.’” She believes that revisiting these myths allows us to uncover truths about ourselves and the society we live in: “The reason we keep going back to myths is because they reveal something useful about our present, our pasts and our future. It’s all a never-ending cycle,” she adds. It’s this deep-rooted connection to history and culture that she hopes will resonate with attendees, allowing them to see fashion not just as clothing but as a narrative woven into the fabric of life.

Virgil’s The Georgics IV

as portrayed by DONT WALK

FS: The Essence of Timeless Beauty

Astrea, the Creative Director of FS, takes a different yet almost complementary approach. “My theme is not particularly Italian,” she asserts, FS aims for a cohesive narrative that resonates universally. “However, living in Italy, being surrounded by beauty has undeniably shaped my taste.” Her theme revolves around the concept of Skin, exploring how clothing both conceals and reveals one’s identity.

“The theme of skin can be spun in so many ways, and I want to focus on how clothes cover up your skin but are also your second skin,” she explains. This exploration is not just about aesthetics, it’s a journey toward self-acceptance: “The result of the theme should be about self-acceptance and the relevant theme today that people deserve to be ‘comfortable in their skins.’”

The theme is simple yet holds incredible depth. Beyond the encouragement to embrace bare skin and authentic beauty lies a powerful critique of how we perceive beauty today. For Astrea, beauty transcends cultural boundaries. “I think there are many kinds of beauty, but I pursue the objective one,” she says. This perspective stems from her classical approach to beauty, deeply rooted in her Italian heritage.

“Most places in the world don’t have as much natural and effortless beauty as we do, so they try so hard to create it […] Right now everyone is so concerned with trying to look original, trying to look ‘different’, and oftentimes, to do that, they go ugly.”

Her desire to bring out classical and traditional beauty through her theme reflects an understanding that true elegance often lies in simplicity: she concludes, “I think something very Italian is the appreciation for simple things, for effortless beauty.”

FS Models

Craftsmanship and Sustainability

Both directors are committed to integrating one of the most important elements of Italian culture into their shows: craftsmanship, reflecting a dedication to quality and storytelling through fashion. “The attention to detail is something Italians do well,” Cecilia states, highlighting her focus on collaborating with emerging Italian designers who can bring unique narratives to life through their creations. “I made it very clear for this year that I didn’t necessarily want big names, what I really wanted was to incorporate craftsmanship and designers that have something to say,” she shares, emphasizing the importance of creating narratives through her pieces and forging a dialogue for the show.

Astrea echoes this feeling, stating, “Definitely, I have included a lot of Italian designers and craftsmanship in the show this year. I am excited to collaborate with designers to create a dialogue between fashion, music and art, which will make the event truly impactful.” This collaborative spirit is essential for both directors, who agree that big names can sometimes suppress the true essence of artistic expression. By giving emerging talents a platform, they aim to highlight the innovative spirit of Italian design while fostering a sense of community within the St Andrews fashion scene.

Empowering Messages and Charitable Impact

This is the million-dollar question for every critique of the Fashion Shows in St Andrews: What about the Charities? Well, Cecilia and Astrea certainly did not disappoint with their answers.

Beyond aesthetics, both shows carry significant messages tied to their chosen charities this year. Astrea notes, “Our charity, Scottish Women’s Aid, resonates deeply with our theme of Skin, empowerment and body positivity.” Scottish Women’s Aid is the leading charity for violence and domestic abuse in Scotland. By highlighting the importance of self-acceptance, Astrea aims to challenge societal norms surrounding femininity and beauty. “At the core of these fashion shows is a charity, and I feel like this is often forgotten,” she explains. By bringing this aspect to the forefront, she seeks to ensure that the events serve as a platform for change as well as artistic expression.

Astrea’s vision is about more than just fabric, it’s a celebration of the human body, free from the constraints of sexualization. “I want to play with nudity to make it enticing and captivating, but essentially the message remains: naked bodies should not be sexualized” she insists, aiming to reclaim the narrative around how bodies are perceived in society.

Cecilia, on the other hand, emphasizes hope and resilience through her collaboration with Peaceful Tomorrows and Doctors Without Borders. “DONT WALK doesn’t just have to raise funds, it can create a meaningful, relevant dialogue” she insists, “I stress the idea of dialogue because it is my main focus”. This is particularly significant nowadays, where conversations around charity and activism are more crucial than ever. Cecilia, through her creative direction, uses dialogue to create connections with her ideas, her audience, her designers and especially her charities. “We want to put our charities and their missions at the foreground this year,” she states, highlighting their role in protecting and empowering individuals across the world (in Lebanon, Palestine and Sudan, most recently) who found themselves in zones of conflict and epidemics.

This year, DONT WALK delivers a message of hope. In the maze of life, it’s easy to lose one’s way, but Cecilia believes that reconnecting with one’s roots is the best way to find grounding — just as we return to myths to seek answers, revealing insights that help us better understand the present. As Cecilia explains well, “I want to remind people that beneath all the darkness and negative emotions, there is always a glimmer of hope at the bottom of Pandora’s box.”

As both directors weave their messages of empowerment and hope into their respective shows, they aim to inspire attendees to engage with the themes on a personal level. The integration of charity into the fabric of fashion adds depth to the events, turning them into not just showcases of creativity, but also platforms for social change.

In another skin:

*Celebrating the layers that make every being unique,* by FS

Staying True to Cultural Roots

When asked for advice for aspiring creatives, both Cecilia and Astrea emphasize the importance of understanding one’s roots. “Know where you come from to know where you want to go next,” Astrea advises, echoing Cecilia’s sentiment that creativity often thrives when one is authentic to their identity. Cecilia adds, “One important thing I want to remind international students whose first language is not English, as for Astrea and I, is to not be afraid of what could be lost in translation. Sometimes, your creativity and imagery can be more eloquent than words.” This advice resonates deeply, especially for international students navigating the complexities of expressing their identities in a new cultural landscape.

As St Andrews prepares for this year’s fashion shows, the Italian influence promises to infuse the events with a sense of elegance, history, and depth that goes far beyond aesthetics. With Cecilia and Astrea at the helm, audiences can look forward to a celebration of beauty that resonates on multiple levels, embracing both individuality and cultural heritage. The marriage of craftsmanship, charitable missions, and timeless beauty encapsulates a unique moment in the St Andrews fashion scene — one that honours the past while looking toward a hopeful future.

Though the Chess Game photo at the beginning of this article suggests a rivalry, Cecilia and Astrea are anything but opponents. Like the Italian Game, one of the oldest openings in chess, their approaches draw from a deep-rooted tradition.

As these two creatives lead the way in this Italian Opening, they remind us that fashion is not just about what we wear, it’s about the stories we tell and the connections we forge through art.

Special thanks to Astrea Pulcinelli Triossi and Cecilia Nuvola Becchini for allowing me to use these photographs, for the time dedicated to our conversations, and for trusting me to represent their vision.

The Italian Influence on St Andrews Fashion: A Year of Timeless Beauty