Gucci Twinsburg: A Celebration of Individuality in Multitude

Words by Lucy Hopton

“It’s exactly the impossibility of the perfectly identical that nourishes the magic of twins… It’s the deception of similitude. The game of illusion of a cracked symmetry” – Alessandro Michele

This year’s Milan Fashion Week was host to Alessandro Michele’s ‘Gucci Twinsburg’, a standout collection in both its concept and designs. Since becoming Creative Director in 2015, Michele’s runway looks have become increasingly extravagant; this is perfectly encapsulated in the SS23 ready-to-wear show through the combination of bold prints, 80s nostalgia, and Italian tailoring with neo-romantic, futuristic accessories. ‘Twinsburg’, named after the largest twin festival in the world, showed sixty-eight pairs of identical twins walk in tandem down two runways, separated by a screen. Two, symbolically and literally, became one as the partition was raised, revealing their mirrored image to the audience. In the second part of the show, each set of twins walked the runway together, holding hands. Michele’s reflection on the power of family was rather emotional, bringing a tear to my eye; this is a theme that seems unusual or even rare in the fashion industry. The familial atmosphere was an ode to his ‘two mothers’ – his biological mother and her twin sister, Eralda and Giuliana – “two extraordinary women who made their twinship the ultimate seal of their existence”.

Michele has a long-standing curiosity with duality and duplication, as memorably seen at the 2022 Met Gala when he dressed identically to Jared Leto.

Upon first viewing, I thought Gucci was simply making a spectacle of identical twins, whereas in fact Michele is doing the opposite; this was a “deception of similitude” as he described in his show notes. In the fashion industry, clothes are duplicated, often losing value and individuality in the process, however here the power of multiplicity is used as a tool of individuality. Each model is slightly different. As they walked each twin held a slightly varying expression, some walked out of sync with each other, and others wore neck ties differently. Though not intentional, I think these seemingly imperfections summarize Michele’s vision of individuality beautifully. This is further seen in the portraits by Mark Peckmezian covering the walls of the room, humanising the models by displaying the twins showing a variety of emotions in a stripped-down, intimate setting.

Symbols of multiplication run throughout the outfits, down to the smallest detail of two-colour nails, and most notably with figures of ‘gremlins’ (creatures which multiply uncontrollably in the 1984 film Gremlins). The show’s recurring reference to nature was also captivating, seen with leopard print leggings, florals, and especially with the photosynthesis equation printed on the back of a blazer – all of which I took as an emphasis on the natural phenomena of twins. The runway was accompanied by a voiceover of the song ‘Identical Twins’ by arguably the most famous twins in Hollywood, the Olsen sisters. The lyrics sound more like poetry than a children’s song and their recitation places emphasis on the sisters’ differences.

My favourite looks are androgynous, combining the masculine and feminine: the deconstructed, garter-like suit trousers and the wide-legged trousers that simultaneously look like a skirt. A notable mention is the FUORI! sequin jacket, which refers to an LGBTQ+ magazine from the 1970s which fought for queer freedom, a name which the director himself wore backstage on a T-shirt. In the post-show conference, Michele expressed concern at the growing atmosphere of hate towards queer groups and individuals, and thus uses FUORI! to open the conversation on homophobia today. He poignantly stated:

“When we are many, we are much stronger”

One interesting element of the collection is the inspiration from traditional Japanese and Chinese dress, and the headpieces use influences from Arab and Indian facial jewellery. Though these pieces are beautiful and a sign of diversification within the fashion industry, I would like to see more commentary from Michele on his inspiration behind these design choices and whether he worked with artists from these cultures so that the collection could be designed in a respectful way.

Overall, Alessandro Michele’s homage to his two mothers is an iconic moment in runway history, managing to create an atmosphere of familiarity and filiality whilst expressing individuality. The outfits are unique and yet still clearly Gucci in the silhouette, patterns, and sleek tailoring; this collection paves the way for more exciting innovation from the Creative Director in future.

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