Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022: A Week to Remember

Words by Rosalie Gadoua-Giroux

If like me, most of your Instagram following consists of designers, models, fashion influencers and publications, you have undoubtedly noticed your feed was a lot more active this past week than it usually is. The reason for this? Paris Haute Couture week, of course! While most of us university students are visiting our parents and spending our days lying in our childhood bedrooms, the darlings of the fashion world accompanied by a wild pack of celebrities jetted off to the city of lights to sit at the most anticipated shows of the year. They were not disappointed.

Contrarily to popular belief, not all designer labels and collections are considered couture. There is a very strict list of criteria that must be met for a fashion house to be considered haute couture: it must possess an atelier in Paris, present 2 collections a year (at least 50 designs in each) and custom make designs for private clients (mostly one-off designs). Meeting those standards is considered proof that these houses treat their trade with the utmost reverence and respect. Only 14 houses have earned the privilege of calling themselves haute couture. Among the most recognizable names: Dior, Valentino and Chanel. On the occasion of the spectacle that is fashion week, some labels which do not feature on the official list of haute couture designers are invited to present.

While ready-to-wear fashion shows appear too eccentric to many, they are strewn with accessible garments that one might be able picture themselves wearing for some everyday events. Haute couture shows are, in most cases, a lot more theatrical and exhibit incredibly extravagant outfits that are unwearable outside the runway for most people. Compiled here is a short list of my favourite catwalks from the 2022 Fall/Winter Parisian couture shows.

Schiaparelli

An Italian house that has been making waves recently. That gown with the gold metal tree necklace covering Bella Hadid’s modesty at the Cannes Festival? Schiaparelli. Their collection was one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful of the season. In a world where fashion design is becoming politicized and is centered more and more around making statements, it is easy to critic collections for having no raison d’être besides being beautiful. Schiaparelli’s creative director Daniel Roseberry condemned this idea in his official statement presenting the collection by explaining that simply making pretty things is a challenge in itself and that there is nothing wrong in beauty being the ultimate goal. Flowers, chains and plunging necklines were at the center of this collection presented on a darkened runway. The most used accessories consisted of wide-brimmed hats, reminding us of the design house’s Italian heritage. There was, as always, a big emphasis on large, gold jewelry pieces that have become characteristic to the brand.

Daring is the only word that comes to mind when looking at the dip in those trousers and the placement of the chains. While I would probably not have the guts necessary to wear such an outfit, I would most certainly be in awe of any woman that did.

This dress is composed entirely of chains and jewels: the only fabric is the velvet that the ribbons hanging on the side of the dress are made of. I love how this ensemble is basically made of nothing that is traditionally used to make clothes and yet, the model’s body is entirely covered up. There is something about the idea of being entirely covered up by jewels that is incredibly lavish.

This mini dress is very simple but also very classy. Velvet always gives the impression of luxury and the volume of the skirt of the dress makes it fun and flirty. I particularly like how the material unexpectedly becomes a flower.

Once again, there is beauty in simplicity. This seemingly unassuming black velvet jumpsuit is transformed into a very artistic piece thanks to a bunch of flowers that, while also being simple, add both color and an element of fantasy.

Zuhair Murad

While Schiaparelli appealed to my tastes through its straightforwardness and sexiness, Murad’s left me speechless with its over-the-top glamour and extravagance. Named “Les Arts Divinatoires” (The arts of divination), this collection exhibited clothes that were in total accordance with the theme: most of them were embroidered with signs of the zodiac, tarot cards and spiritual symbols such as the evil eye. Sequins and other sparkling elements were present in all outfits, adding great splendor and allure. A lot of dresses were cinched at the waist with the aid of belts and shoulders were covered with chic graceful capes. Choosing only a handful of dresses was very difficult but here are the most jaw-dropping gowns from the runway.

This semi-sweetheart neckline, spaghetti strapped dress while being simple is also breathtaking, thanks to the high leg slit and the bare sides. Six tarot cards are embroidered in sequins from the top of the dress to the bottom and are reminiscent of a church’s stained-glass windows.

Although I love the material of this dress (so shiny), its vibrant electric blue color is what really caught my eye. I find this gown to be extremely elegant due partly to the pleats on the torso and thighs. The bejeweled evil eye accomplishes the role of a necklace and adds the element of fantasy crucial to the theatricality of haute couture.

The thigh-high boots are a big yes for me; I would love to wear them with a pair of jeans to jazz up a simple outfit. I like the combination of the velvet shirt and boots with the tulle skirt: the velvet gives texture and chic, while the skirt counterbalances the heaviness of the velvet. The sparkly snake (Chinese zodiac) and the sun and moon (astrology) were in line with the theme and prevented the outfit from being too monotonous.

I think it is safe to say that this dress will be seen on award ceremonies’ red carpets when the time comes. It might seem demure at first because of the long sleeves and well-covered chest but the ultra-high slit brings some needed sultriness. The heaviness of the sequins decreases from top to bottom and varies between circular shapes and columns, almost creating some sort of visual illusion.

This lime green concoction employs the same material as the aforementioned blue dress, resulting in the same sheen and vibrancy. The padded shoulders partnered with the cape create a wonderful straight silhouette. This is the only look in which the model’s hair was covered; a little wink to the designer’s Lebanese heritage.

Elie Saab

Have you ever tried on a dress and felt a pinching in your heart because of how pretty it was and how much you wanted it? That’s the feeling I got during the entirety of the Elie Saab show. This collection had a lot more pieces than the aforementioned ones. It also differed in that it contained looks for both men and women. Since this article can only be so long, I will focus on the women’s line. “Extravagance” is the word I would choose to define this runway. Sequins, feathers, fringes, beads, jewels, crochet, capes, trains and oversized boleros reminiscent of Tudor collars were all spotted at some point on the catwalk. While my tastes, as previously established, usually veer more towards simplicity in style and materials, I was subjugated by the intricacies of the gowns displayed.

This one was a sensory overload in the best way! I know a designer has successfully created a beautiful piece when the combination of gems, crochet and feathers does not make me wish I were blind. In this case, I would give anything to try on the dress.

The beautiful turquoise of this dress is what first captured my attention followed closely by the sleekness of its cut. While the material is see-through, its sexiness is well-balanced with the practicality of the train made of a sturdier textile that seems to make the dress more proper.

This velvet dress is probably one of the most decadent I have seen all week. It oozes luxury and prosperity thanks to the material, colors and slight sparkle. Is anyone else getting Louis XIV vibes?

This is a prime example of the oversized bolero, Tudor collar-like contraption mentioned earlier (if anyone can come up with a better name or description for this, please let me know). While most of the gown is sheer, sequins were cleverly employed to cover the necessary areas.

Last but definitely not least is this gorgeous bejeweled black and bronze gown. The contrast in volume between the body-hugging dress and the ample bolero create a nice balance while the sleeves that morph into gloves make this look both creative and elegant.

This year’s shows were as theatrical as they were beautiful and as sophisticated as they were sultry; just as haute couture should be. Above are some of my favourite collections and their best looks from the Fall/Winter couture fashion week. However, many other catwalks would have made the cut had this article been longer.  Special mentions go to Georges Hobeika, Chanel, Alexis Mabille and Rahul Mishra- do yourself a favour and check them out!