Words by Vera Fortun Marco, Writer

For a few years, men’s fashion seems to have been dominated by celebrities attempting to take back their masculinity through the use of conventionally feminine style pieces.

Notably, we were all taken back by Harry Styles’ fashion sense after the breakthrough 0f his solo career in 2017. In fact, on his 30th birthday this past February Vogue released an article focusing on his 30 “best looks”, where a clear transition in his style can be observed at the 2017 mark. We saw him go from grungy teenage boy style to more feminine shapes, colours and inspirations, amongst which we can find princess Diana’s sheep sweater to pink and glitter pieces.

Other celebrities, like actor Jacob Elordi, seemed to take note from Harry’s experimentation with traditionally feminine styles incorporating elements of women’s fashion into their day to day outfits. For instance, Jacob Elordi incorporated pochette bags, like the Mini Wallace Bottega Benette, into his outfits. A refreshing replacement from the painfully overused male fanny pack…

However, it seems that men’s fashion is not as keen to introduce these elements into their 2024 and 2025 collections as shown by the recent collections of three Menswear’s giants

GUCCI

Gucci’s Fall/ Winter 2024 collection shows a dominance of traditionally masculine shapes and styles.

Suits, loafers, long box cut coats that accentuate broad shoulders are the dominating fits exposed on the Gucci runway. Despite some slightly more effeminate details like necklaces and the occasional bejeweeled coat collar, the Gucci runway is definitely an exemplification of fashion’s regression to classic styles.

Another key aspect to note is the return of sombre colours: maroon, black, grey and navy blue especially have overtaken winter and fall fashion, accentuating the return of classic masculinity. This being said, these colours are also dominating women’s fall fashion suggesting that fashion as a whole is seeking a return to classic elegance. A notion developed further under trends like “quiet luxury” and “old money”.

This being said, the bag seems to have been officially adopted into the men's collection as a key accessory. Yet , Gucci’s notion of a masculine bag is not that of Jacob Elordi’s dainty, mini pochettes. Instead models have been seen wearing larger shopper style leather bags in red, shying away from the traditional feminine purse. It seems to scream MEN WEAR BAGS not purses.

PRADA

For this year’s Menswear Spring/ Summer 2025 Fashion Show, Prada aimed to focus on “contemporary notions of truth and pretence”. Thus, the dominance of classic styles, especially straight-legged suit trousers and cable knit sweaters, is in Prada’s view the contemporary truth of fashion.

Men’s fashion, according to Prada, - although experimental with accessories, as exhibited by the use of futuristic sunglasses with every outfit, and colours and prints, exemplified by the occasional neon or floral print,-is experiencing a regression into more classic masculine styles that allude to Ralph Lauren’s “Luxury Menswear”.

RALPH LAUREN

Their last Spring 2025 collection presented at Khalili Stables showed an experimental side to Ralph Lauren… in Womenswear.

Whilst Ralph Lauren showed an eagerness to experiment with colour, contemporary accessories and masculine styles for their womenswear collection, they exhibited their most classical self in their Menswear collection.

Male models were exclusively dressed in suits, Tuxedos, polo shirts and chinos. All of which remained in the neutral colour palette of navy, white, beige, and black.

Thus, showing that even extremely classic brands like Ralph Lauren, have taken further steps to highlight the return of very traditional, stereotypically masculine clothing.

To sum up, the fashion industry is showing a very keen desire to bring back classic, traditionally masculine styles, showing a regression from what we thought could be an embracement of femininity in menswear akin to that shown in womenswear, which has fully embraced masculine shapes and styles through the decades. Thus, although some brands like Gucci have decided to incorporate traditionally feminine accessories into their collections, they have done so under masculine terms, refusing to fully cross the fashion gender rules.

Menswear is becoming increasingly repetitive and imprisoned within its own male traditions. If male designer brands are striving towards timelessness, perhaps they should try to break a couple of male stereotypes and experiment with ‘feminine’ colours, patterns and shapes. This could help ensure the survival of men’s fashion, which cannot regress much more into the past before becoming completely outdated.

Now the question is: will menswear brands dive into the future or will they stay stuck in a romanticised male past?

The Return of the Gentleman.