Words by Wonder Lisungi, Stylist

*Nour, pictured with her vandalism work*

“Apocalyptic Rebellion SS24” is the debut collection of Palestinian artist and designer Nour. Under Nour’s creative direction, her collection is an ode – a memoir of life and a reimagining of identity. Nour’s collection showcases the grief and process of grieving of the Palestinian people. Forceful displacement is further encapsulated by the designer’s deliberate choice of materials, particularly wool. The natural movement of weaving patterns creates an organic and fluid relationship between the fabric and the body. The design cannot be complete until it is worn. On the wearer, we witness the final design take shape, and even then, through motion, the final design is constantly shifting and alternating forms. This interaction with the materiality of her designs allows for an expression of even greater significance, Nour repurposes textiles that carry associations of fragility, perhaps even decadence. Wool, though typically linked with softness, is transformed to represent something more skeletal – even violent. (Design 007: “Open-Air Prison” Headscarf).

The collection is a carefully curated body of work, serving as a canvas for Nour to express her vulnerability, cultural identity, and societal commentary. Currently composed of eight designs, the assemblage includes brutalist shapes, with the skeletal imagery being the most notable.

*Spinal Thread SS24. Photo: Elle Edwards*

At first glance, the dark, elusive looks in the “Apocalyptic Rebellion” collection fall within the realms of avant-garde and wearable art. One look immediately caught my attention, Design 003, “Spinal Thread” (pictured above). It takes liberty in being a stand-alone piece, exploring the idea of independence and the fragility of being isolated from the community. As her Palestinian roots would infer, community as a safe space is a pivotal value.

Moreover, the collection introduces Design 006, “The Stone Headpiece”, a distinctive look symbolising resilience and endurance. Crafted using techniques recalling chiaroscuro, the metallic interior and fabric exterior allow for a complex interplay of light and shadow. Its raw, unrefined texture authentically mirrors the grounded nature of the Palestinian community. The unconventional use of material heightens the aesthetic allure and reinforces a connection between tangible and intangible aspects of cultural identity.

Nour’s artwork seamlessly aligns with her designs. The piece “How Deep Can You Cut”, crafted using charcoal and acrylic paint, intricately mirrors the essence of Design 003. Serving as a visual companion to the spinal thread, its raw strokes and delicate hues of colour infuse the collection with further emotional depth. This fusion of palpable and visual elements perfectly captures the fragility of the human vessel. Hand-cut, sewn, and threaded, Nour’s design transcends mere aesthetics, embodying a tactile narrative of the human experience.

*“Open-Air Prison” Headscarf SS24. Photo: Elle Edwards*

*“Stone” Headpiece SS24. Photo: Elle Edwards*

Through her eyes, I can see themes of enclosure and entrapment; even in a community with other boxed figures, it is hard to see past ourselves whilst recognising more than our own suffering. Nour blurs the lines between ready-to-wear clothing and visual art. As I immersed myself further into the collection, the profound statement resonated: “Your heritage is preserved through you; treasure who you are infinitely.” Who are we if not the bearers of our own stories?

Nour, both in her personal life and artistry, maintains a relatively low profile, but what we do gain from her, even in the smaller collections, is a profound sense of selflessness. Her creations tell a story of “restraint, rebellion, and breakthrough”; the artist’s work becomes a guiding light to the shadows of collective grief, unveiling the nuanced stories that echo the Palestinian narrative. Art is still a form of freedom, and Nour carries her collection like a “second skin”.

You can view the rest of Nour’s collection through her Instagram.

“Restraint, Rebellion, Breakthrough”: An Expression of Cultural Identity and Freedom.